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The drive from Jakarta to Semarang on the north coast of Central Java takes around 10 hours. The trip takes you up out of Jakarta and then through the small towns of Indramayu, Brebes, Tegal, Cirebon and Pemalang before you arrive in Semarang. At this time of year the drive is slow- the rainy season has started and in many places outside the cities the road is still only a two way highway with no median barrier separating on coming traffic. Typical Indonesian moments are frequent?where can you go when a bus is hurtling head on towards you at 100km/h and not slowing down? What to do when your car is mobbed by villagers voting for a new mayor...or passing the crushes carcasses of trucks, vans, minibuses and container trucks, you just have to wonder how long your luck will hold!
The route from Jakarta through to Cirebon follows the fertile coastal plain. This area is known as the ?Pantura?, from the Indonesian ?Pantai Utara? or ?northern beaches?. Lust rice fields line both sides of the road. The encroachment of commercial development is unfortunately eating into the greenery. Large malls, Ruko (shop) complexes and industrial parks are being built everywhere. In between these however is still some of the prettiest rice land in Asia. The farms are still worked traditionally and the effort that goes into the management of these pieces of agricultural land is impressive. Where the road follows the coast mangroves and other shoreline vegetation are interspersed between rough wooden shacks selling Crab, fish and shrimp. The Indramayu area is famous for its mango's- so many varieties and so sweet they melt in your mouth.
After passing through the tea town of Tegal (Old Dutch buildings mixed in with new development) and skirting Cirebon- the road leaves the coast and climbs up through the foothills. Teak forests and rubber plantation replace the rice paddies. The going on this section is slow- especially if the rain is falling, but the scenery is well worth it. The road climbs through the towns of Subuh and Batang. Roadside stalls sell a variety of tropical fruits-including the exotic Jackfruit and spiky, smelly Durian. This is not coffee country but I did take the opportunity to stop at a warung and try a local Kopi. The coffee was mixed with nutmeg ad red sugar- sweet and bitter at the same time. It was wok roasted robusta- ground up using a traditional sandstone bowl and pestle.
Semarang itself is a plastic cups manufacturers port city- located on a narrow strip of land between the coast and a divide of large volcanoes. During Dutch times this was a major trading port- serving as a feed for the hundreds of plantations located in the narrow strip between the north and south coasts of Central Java. The Dutch built an impressive rail system that carried the coffee, sugar, rubber, cloves and tobacco from the hinterland to the warehouses located along the port cities canals. The city is still the provincial capital for Central Java and is a very pleasant place. The hills above the city give fantastic views across the city to the big blue Java Sea. From this cooler altitude the volcanic peaks behind are also majestic- towering and dominating- dark, heavily forested and quite threatening.
Semarang has perhaps the best preserved examples of both Dutch architecture and Dutch town planning in Indonesia. The downtown area is filled with examples of Dutch colonial buildings. There are numerous old warehouses, offices, hotels and churches that are still now in use. Old ornate lamps line the wide streets. In this part of the city the traffic flows in an orderly fashion. As one moves into to newer areas of any Indonesian city the lack of recent town planning becomes increasingly evident.
American coffee? Technically there is no such thing, at least none that is grown in North America. There is such a thing as the American coffee consumer which might as well be an institution all their own for it's their money that drives a substantial portion of the market.
Americans consume more coffee than any other nation on earth. American coffee companies revolutionized coffee marketing, packaging, distributing, and even processing and roasting in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. America has sent troops to other countries to protect coffee growers and exporters from civil unrest. Yes, America is in love with coffee.
Coffee even played a role in the birth of America. Early British colonists revolted against Britain taxing tea. They exerted their independence by throwing cases of English tea into Boston Harbor during the famed Boston Tea Party. The early American coffee drinker was seen as paper cups manufacturers patriotic and independent.
American coffee retailers like Starbucks have created huge multi-billion dollar companies. They did this by providing the public not only a good cup of coffee but a relaxing place to socialize and drink their coffee. Starbucks did not invent the coffeehouse by any means. The earliest known coffeehouse opened in 1475 in Constantinople. But Starbucks definitely revolutionized the experience for American coffee drinkers and carried the modern coffeehouse into the 21st century.
Americans have taken coffee with them into every war since the Revolution of 1776. Whether to stay awake in battle or as a comforting, soothing reminder of home in the midst of bleak and frightening conditions or both.
In fact, many wars have been fought over coffee and the lands on which it is grown. From small scale turf wars to full blown civil wars and political revolt. Such as in Nicaragua in the late 1800's and early 1900's.
Coffee has become an integral part of every society it has ever been introduced to from the time it was discovered about 600 A.D. There is definitely something about the dark, mysterious and tantalizing beverage that captivates the spirit and captures the imagination. American coffee drinkers are no different and have adopted the age old addiction with gusto.
The ins and outs of the French Press
Is it even possible now days to have an absolutely best tasting, most full flavored coffee without traveling to South America? It is! And all the big coffee house know it too. That is why they are selling the ever gaining popular French Press. Now at first glance it looks like something great-granny on the wagon train might have had to make coffee. Well, except it now comes in stainless steel and slick black rubber. But the French Press is actually quite new. Yes, the Europeans plastic cup manufacturers had it before us, but even at that it is still considered a newer gadget in the kitchen.
The French Press, even for coffee lovers is a little intimidating to say the least. I mean, it consists of a glass beaker, and a plunger. Where is the plug in? Well, there is none. Meet the newest, non electric, coffee maker. Promising to give you the best cup of coffee available and right in the quietness of your own house. So how does it work?
First off - put on some water to boil. Why that is going, run the glass part of the French press under warm water to warm the glass. This will keep the heat in the press and will not cool down the water you put in.
Next - Grind your choice of coffee bean into a coarse grind. The coarseness of the bean will allow the natural oils to seep into the water faster. Grinding your own coffee when needed, will give you the best flavor too. Add the recommended amount to your press.
Now as soon as the water hit's a boil turn off the heat and allow the water to quit boiling. This means, you do not want to see the bubbles in the water. As soon as it has cooled enough you can pour it into the press. Make sure to keep the plunger up at the top. You do not want it to get into the coffee grounds yet as you might get some of the grounds on top of the screen.
Wait approximately one minute than swirl the coffee grounds and water around. You'll want to see a circular motion of the beans swirling in the water. You can also take a non-metal spoon and stir it up. Replace the lid.
After about 2 to 3 minutes longer you are ready to plunge. Using the plunger move from the top slowly, evenly, down towards the bottom. If you do it slow enough the coffee grounds will not be able to get around the screen. Continue pushing down until you have all the coffee grounds at the bottom and the plunger is still in place holding them down. You may now pour your coffee into a mug and enjoy your new found talent of making coffee in the French Press.